Once fixed, I shortened the exposed fibres using nail clippers so that they're less likely to be pulled out whilst grouting. Fill in the trenches I drilled the big hole a little above the equator for the super-laser. I duct-taped both inside and outside to stop the plastic from shattering/splitting. Using a hole-saw bit means that you can reuse the circle of plastic as the super-laser. This circular offcut was flipped over and hot-glued into place. Sketching the damage outlines Note: This would've been a really good time to fit a threaded tube where the electrical cable can pass through. I couldn't source these tubes locally so decided to leave it for later. Filling the walls

Transparent Plastic Sphere: To use as the mould. I found a cheap ball for hamsters (~16cm diameter) that splits in half and has a handy access hole. You can usually find plastic balls - I had a similar size one that was briefly full of chocolate pieces... The closer the tape is to the surface of the shell, the more visible it will be when the light shines through it. I didn't cover the deep-damages sections (areas with the hot-glue mounds) with tape yet. Make sure to press the tape down well before painting to avoid leaks and blotches. But even if you have some slight uneven lines — the end result will be great. TheDeathStarhas so many little bits and dots, it will look like you wanted it this way 😉 Making hollow spheres out of concrete usually involves building layers onto an inflatable ball. I wanted to build it the wrong way around - to have a pattern on the outside. It didn't seem like it would be particularly easy to do but I wanted to try anyway.. Craft Foam: for marking trench-ish shapes. I've tried using oil-based clay but found that stuff hard to remove from the concrete once set.Plastic Fibre Optic Cable: I got this from a cheap light toy. If the lengths are short and straight, you can use clear fishing line too although it won't be as bright.

It'd be great if we can cement the optical fibres into the Death Star. However, fibre optic cables (even the plastic ones) snap, break and pull out easily. It might not matter if I used an actual mold (e.g. a ball within a ball) and poured the concrete in...but I was going to be slapping a concrete mix onto the inside of a ball. So I pre-drill the holes and use craft foam to cover them. Then I'll remake the holes with pins after the concrete has been added. For the super-laser a ring of foam the size of the circle was cut and attached. For the inner piece, I pushed various circular objects (bottle caps, cups, etc) into a disc of foam to make marks. I then cut random shapes out along the arc segments and glued it in place. Sealing the foam

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Winter holidays Furniture Storage & organization Beds & mattresses Kitchen & appliances Home textiles Lighting Baby & kids Home décor Kitchenware & tableware Rugs, mats & flooring Bathroom Outdoor Plants & planters Home electronics Pet accessories Home improvement Laundry & cleaning Smart home IKEA Food & Swedish restaurant Home Accessories I used a 1.5mm drill bit to drill a bunch of holes on the sphere. The grid markings on the surface of the sphere was handy to follow. Since the fibres are around 0.5mm, this hole should be big enough. I kept drilling until I got bored - which wasn't long. Add trench / panels

Once you’re satisfied with the look of your pattern, you can paint a darker shade of paint over the whole ball. Storage & organisation Furniture Textiles Kitchenware & tableware Kitchens Lighting Decoration Rugs, mats & flooring Beds & mattresses Baby & children Smart home Bathroom products Laundry & cleaning Plants & plant pots Home electronics Home improvement Outdoor living Food & beverages Christmas Shop Shop by room I saw a transparent plastic sphere at a local shop and immediately thought of making a Death Star pendant lamp out of concrete. This was sparked by looking at a whole bunch of helpful instructables about how to make concrete pendant lights. I've also seen instructions about how to make a Hollow Concrete Sphere and about passing light using optical fibres. I wanted to combine those three concepts whilst playing around with concrete/cement. Who hasn't dreamed of owning a half-destroyed battle station made of concrete that functions as a light? Anyone? Okay, so it's not exactly practical but it was fun to try to something new.What I decided to use was transparent silicone sealant. Silicone usually takes forever to cure and I don't have the patience to apply thin layers. To get a faster cure time, I used the mold making technique of kneading the silicone in glycerin-rich soapy water. Speeding up the cure time makes the finished silicone slightly cloudy but much much easier to shape and push into place. Tape it up PVA glue & mold release: To seal the foam. For the release, I used a bike chain lubricant spray though some other oils should be fine.